Tapered vs. Inline Crochet Hooks: How to Choose the One That's Right for You
If you've ever stood in the yarn aisle holding two hooks that look almost identical — same size, same material, same price — but felt completely different in your hand, you've already discovered the great crochet hook debate: tapered vs. inline.
Neither is "better." They're just different. And choosing between them comes down to three things: your crochet style, your favorite projects, and how your hands like to move.
Let's walk through the decision together.
## First, a Quick Visual (So You Know What You're Looking At)
Hold up two hooks side by side.
- Tapered hooks (think Boye) have a rounded, cone-shaped head. The neck narrows down, then gently widens back to the shaft. It looks smooth and curved — like a little ramp.
- Inline hooks (think Susan Bates) have a flat, chisel-like head. The neck stays the same width as the shaft. Everything lines up in a straight, no-nonsense line.
That small shape difference changes everything about how the hook moves through yarn and how stitches form.
## The Real Question: What Kind of Crocheter Are You?
Instead of asking which hook is "better," ask yourself these three questions.
### Question 1: Do You Crochet for Speed or for Precision?
If you crave speed: Go tapered. The rounded head and narrow throat let yarn slip on and off quickly. Your hook can almost rock through stitches without stopping. This is the choice for mindless TV-watching crochet where you want to cover ground fast.
If you crave precision: Go inline. The flat head and straight shaft create identical loops every single time. Each stitch looks exactly like the last. This is the choice for projects where tension consistency matters more than speed.
### Question 2: What Do You Make Most Often?
| If you mostly make... | Your better choice | Why |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| Blankets, scarves, shawls | Tapered | Speed matters. Small tension differences won't ruin a big, drapey project. |
| Amigurumi, stuffed animals | Inline | Those tight, dense stitches need a hook that won't let yarn slip off. |
| Lace, doilies, thread crochet | Inline | Steel inline hooks give you the precision tiny stitches demand. |
| Hats, sweaters, garments | Either | Personal preference. Try both and see which gives you a gauge you like. |
| Chunky, bulky yarn projects | Tapered | The smoother shape handles oversized loops more easily. |
### Question 3: How Does Your Hand Hold the Hook?
This one surprises people, but your grip matters.
Pencil grip (holding the hook like a pencil, between thumb and middle finger): Inline hooks often feel more natural here because the straight shaft gives you a consistent surface to pinch.
Knife grip (holding the hook like a butter knife, with your palm over the handle): Tapered hooks often feel better here because the slight flare in the shaft gives your hand a subtle "stop" to push against.
Of course, these aren't rules — just patterns that many crocheters notice.
## Light vs. Tight Tension: Another Clue
Your natural tension (how tightly you hold your yarn) is a huge clue.
- Loose crocheters often prefer tapered hooks. The narrower throat helps control the yarn and keeps loops from getting too big.
- Tight crocheters often prefer inline hooks. The deeper throat grabs each loop securely, and the straight shaft prevents you from over-tightening.
If you're constantly dropping stitches or struggling to insert your hook into tight loops, an inline hook might solve both problems at once.
## The Honest Truth: You Might Need Both
Here's what experienced crocheters don't always say out loud: Most of us own both.
I know a designer who uses inline for amigurumi and tapered for lace. I know a teacher who starts beginners on tapered because it's forgiving, then watches half of them switch to inline once they have better tension control. I know someone who uses tapered for acrylic yarn and inline for cotton.
You are allowed to be a hook polyglot.
## A Simple Test (Do This This Week)
You don't have to guess. Here's a 15-minute test that will tell you everything.
1. Buy one of each — a Boye (tapered) and a Susan Bates (inline) in the same size (5.0mm / H-8 is perfect).
2. Grab a medium-weight yarn in a light color (so you can see your stitches clearly).
3. Chain 20 stitches with the tapered hook. Work 4 rows of single crochet. Notice: How does it feel? Does the yarn slip or catch? Are your stitches even?
4. Chain 20 stitches with the inline hook. Work 4 rows of single crochet. Ask the same questions.
5. Compare your two swatches. Which one looks more uniform? Which one was more comfortable to make?
Your hands will tell you the answer faster than any blog post can.
## The Bottom Line
There is no wrong choice here. Some of the best crocheters in the world use tapered hooks exclusively. Others won't touch anything but inline. And plenty of us happily switch back and forth depending on the project.
Choose tapered if: You prioritize speed, you're a beginner, or you make large, forgiving projects like blankets.
Choose inline if: You prioritize precision, you make amigurumi or lace, or you struggle with yarn slipping or splitting.
Choose both if: You're curious, you like options, or you want the right tool for every project.
Now go grab a hook — whichever shape calls to you — and make something beautiful.
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Have you tried both tapered and inline hooks? Which one won your heart — and why? Drop your experience in the comments. Your story might help another crocheter find their perfect match.
🧶 Happy crocheting!